Tasting the unique Loimer Gluegglich white NV driven by curiosity
Tasting Note
Gluegglich ‘Gemischter Satz’ white welcomes you into the enchanting world of the Austrian winery Loimer. Gemischter Satz is an old Austrian tradition in which different grape varieties are planted and (generally) fermented together. The blend of different grape varieties results in a layered aroma palette and pleasant tension in the wine. This biodynamic Gluegglich white is a wonderfully fresh orange-style wine, low in alcohol with subdued spiciness. When you taste Gluegglich it shows an invigorating, gracious congeniality.
After I visited Weingut Loimer in 2017 the estate always stayed on my radar. Why? Because Fred Loimer is an exceptionally talented winegrower. Loimer combines all his talents to create authentic wines, shaped by their place of origin. His passion for making remarkable wines quickly earned him the nickname perfectionist.
Loimer took over the family winery (making wine since the 17th century) from his parents in 1998. Fred’s mission is to produce wines that tell a story about their location and the power of nature via the respectful treatment of soil, plants, animals and people. Loimer’s production process can be described as a “closed operating organism”, or what Rudolf Steiner, the father of biodynamic agriculture, called the outcome of “farm individuality”. The result can sometimes be controversial but the wines are always authentic.
Loimer has plots of land in various areas, all of which have different soils and microclimates that are better for growing certain varieties. Of the 40 hectares of vineyards that Fred Loimer manages, the vineyards around Langelois (Kamptal) and Gumpoldskirchen (Thermenregion) allow him to produce Gluegglich, the expressive field blend of grapes that radiates both finesse, balance and complexity in the glass.
The aromas on the nose are fruit-driven and include scents of dried and fresh yellow apples, pink pears, apricots, roses and even orange blossoms. Completely dry with a strong citrus expression, such as bitter orange and pink grapefruit. The compact body shows a juicy texture with grip, dynamic tension and notes of salt-crusted orange slices. The lively acidity is laced in the finish with a mineral saltiness often called sapidity.
When you taste Gluegglich keep a quote from Salvador Dali in mind: “The connoisseur does not drink wine but tastes its secrets.’’ Gluegglich is a wine you should try if you are looking for a fresh, fruity wine with a unique twist, a wine often praised for its unique taste and aftertaste.
Wine Info
Style – Medium-bodied fresh, layered, not filtered wine
Grape varieties – 18% Grüner Veltliner, 21% Riesling, 6% Chardonnay, 16% Zierfandler, 3% Weißburgunder, 13% Sauvignon Blanc, 11% Rotgipfler, 7% Traminer, 4% Weißburgunder, 1% Gemischterer Satz, 1% Muskateller
Vintage – Non-vintage blend, 2022 (45%), 2021 (35%) 2020 (9%), 2019 (4%), 2018 (7%)
Country – Austria
Appellation – According to the Austrian wine law, a wine from different vintages can “only” be called ‘Landwein’.
Region – Thermenregion and Kamptal
Producent – Weingut Loimer
Alcohol – 12%
Fermentation: spontaneous in oak casks partly with berries or mash.
Aging: 4 months on full lees, 2 months on fine lees, up to 3 years of the vintage reserves
Vineyards – Gumpoldskirchen and Langenlois
Ageing potential – till 2025
Serving temperature – 11º to 14º
Score – 90 points
Tasted – April 2024
Recommended food pairing: down-to-earth cooking, such as grilled vegetables or seafood
Bio reference: Kontrollstelle AT-BIO-402 | Österreichische Landwirtschaft
Remarks: The wine has 5 out of 5 glasses in the Austrian Wine Guide.