So here goes. Imagine yourself 70 km north-west of Vienna, in Langenlois in Austria, in the hilly, hot countryside where vines are grown, and at night the fresh, fragrant forest air drifts through the terraced vineyards. It is the terroir of Weingut Bründlmayer in the subregion of Kamptal.
We arrive during harvest, Riesling grapes in endless crates. After tasting several Grüner Veltliner and Rieslings, a decanted Pinot Noir 2016 Reserve reaches our glasses. One of the favourites of the winemaker, we are told. This Blauburgunder is made with the ripest Pinot Noir grapes, coming for the most part from the top vineyards Dechant and Käferberg. Due to the wide variety of soils, each vineyard has its own character. This diversity is further increased by various microclimates. By the way, the calcareous, clayey marine soils of the Käferberg vineyard are similar to those of Château Petrus in Pomerol.
I swirl, smell and take an immediate liking to this elegant, pure and fresh Pinot Noir with persistent fruit of forest berries, cherries, and subtle notes of field flowers, wild herbs, vanilla and fine wood spice. On the palate fine tannins, good freshness. This wine is densely structured, well balanced and medium-bodied with a mineral, almost a salty touch, in the pleasant long finish. What a joy to drink this Pinot wine on a fresh summer night I thought at the time in Niederösterreich.
Opening a bottle Bründlmayer Pinot Noir 2016 Reserve a few days ago, I relive my initial tasting surprise. I just wish it would be summer sooner.
Style – medium-bodied red
Grape varieties – Pinot Noir
Vintage – 2016
Country – Austria
Appellation – Kamptal
Region – Niederösterreich
Producent – Weingut Bründlmayer
Winemakers – Willi Bründlmayer, Thomas Klinger & Andreas Wickhoff
Alcohol – 13%
Vineyards – mostly on the Dechant and Käferberg
Ageing potential – 8 to 9 years
Serving temperature – 14º to 16º
Score – 92 points
Tip – The wine may be decanted ½ hour before serving
Website – Bruendlmayer.at